Natural Hair Growth Oils: A Guide to African Botanicals
No African oil makes hair grow faster, so the best African oil for hair growth is the one that keeps your scalp comfortable and your hair from breaking. Baraka's baobab oil, produced by hand in Ghana, is a light choice for the scalp and fine hair, and coconut oil and palm kernel oil are the traditional choices for the hair shaft. Together they help many people keep more of the length they have already grown. For a complete guide to shea butter in hair care, see Shea Butter for Hair: The Complete Guide.
This is DIY advice, not medical advice. There is no clinical evidence that any plant oil directly stimulates hair growth. If you have hair loss, a sore scalp or a skin condition, see a doctor or dermatologist.
What is the best African oil for hair growth?
There is no single best African oil for hair growth, because none of them changes how fast hair grows. People searching for an African hair growth oil, African growth oil or the best African oil for hair are usually looking for the same thing: longer hair over time. The honest route to that is a calm scalp and less breakage. Here is how the three oils in this guide compare.
- Baobab oil: the lightest. Best for the scalp, fine hair, low-porosity hair and an oily scalp.
- Coconut oil: the most studied. Best before washing, for high-porosity, coily and curly hair.
- Palm kernel oil: richer than coconut oil. Best for very dry or coily hair that likes extra conditioning.
If you want a short answer to what oil is good for African hair growth, start with baobab oil on the scalp and coconut oil before washing. Then see how your hair responds over a couple of months.
African oil for hair growth reviews
Reviews of African hair oils vary a lot, and we do not quote any here. What people commonly report is hair that feels softer, detangles more easily and breaks less. That fits the breakage explanation, not faster growth. Be wary of any review that promises inches in weeks.
African oil for hair growth and thickness
No oil adds strands or makes each strand thicker. Hair can look fuller when less of it snaps off and the scalp is well cared for. Many people also find coated, conditioned hair looks and feels thicker. That is a change in appearance and feel, not in the hair follicle.
What 'Hair Growth Oils' Actually Do
Hair grows about 0.4 to 0.6 inches (1 to 1.5 cm) a month for most people. Genetics, hormones, nutrition and general health set that pace. Plant oils do not meaningfully change it. They affect two things that decide how much hair you keep.
Scalp health. The scalp is the skin hair grows from. A dry, flaky or congested scalp, whether from low sebum, product buildup or seasonal dryness, is not an ideal place for hair to grow. Plant oils are traditionally used across West Africa to keep the scalp moisturised and comfortable.
Breakage reduction. Hair that breaks as fast as it grows will not get longer. Common causes in coily and curly hair are rough detangling, repeated swelling and drying from water (hygral fatigue) and moisture loss from the hair shaft. Oils add slip for detangling, can reduce how much water the hair takes in when used before washing, and slow moisture loss between washes.
The extra length people notice with steady oil use is usually a mix of better scalp conditions and less breakage. It is not stimulated growth.
Baobab Oil: Scalp Conditioning and Fine Hair
Baobab oil is pressed from the seeds of Adansonia digitata, the African baobab tree, native to sub-Saharan Africa including West Africa. It is one of the lightest plant oils for hair. It suits the scalp and fine or low-porosity hair that struggles with heavier oils. Baraka's baobab oil is made by hand in Ghana.
Fatty acid profile: omega-3 (about 23 to 28%), omega-6 (about 25 to 32%) and omega-9 (about 33 to 42%). Very few plant oils contain this much omega-3. It also absorbs into the scalp in about 1 to 3 minutes and leaves no visible residue.
What it does for hair: On the scalp, it helps keep the skin moisturised and is used for dryness and flaking linked to low sebum or seasonal change. On the hair shaft, before or after washing, it adds slip for detangling and reduces friction. It is well tolerated by oily scalps and fine hair.
Traditional use: Baobab oil has long been used across West Africa for hair and scalp conditioning, applied before and after washing. For more uses, see Baobab Oil – Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes.
Best for: scalp conditioning on all hair types, fine and low-porosity hair, and regular scalp oiling without buildup.
Baobab oil is not a treatment for seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis or any diagnosed scalp condition. If flaking or irritation lasts, see a dermatologist.
Coconut Oil: Penetrating Hair Shaft Care
Traditional coconut oil is the most studied plant oil for hair. Its high lauric acid content (about 47 to 52%) lets it move into the hair shaft instead of only coating the surface. Studies suggest that coconut oil used before washing reduces protein loss from hair.
Fatty acid profile: lauric acid (about 47 to 52%), myristic acid (about 17 to 19%) and caprylic and capric acids (about 13 to 15%). This high saturated fat content is why it is solid at cool room temperatures.
What it does for hair: Used before washing, it can reduce how much the hair swells in water, which over time means less hygral fatigue. After washing, it forms a layer that slows moisture loss. On the scalp before shampooing, it conditions the skin before the wash strips it.
Traditional use: Coconut oil is one of the most widely used hair oils across the tropics, including West Africa. People commonly report using it before washing, for sealing after washing and for dry scalp care. For recipes, see DIY Pre-Shampoo Treatment Recipes.
Best for: high-porosity, coily and curly hair, and a pre-wash step. On low-porosity hair it can build up, so baobab oil or shea oil, which is made from unrefined shea butter, may suit better.
Palm Kernel Oil: Rich and Conditioning
Palm kernel oil comes from the hard seed inside the oil palm fruit. It is a different product from red palm oil, which comes from the fleshy pulp. Its fatty acids are mostly lauric acid (about 48 to 55%), like coconut oil, with more oleic acid (about 12 to 16% against 6 to 8% in coconut oil). That makes it a little richer and more conditioning.
Fatty acid profile: lauric acid (about 48 to 55%), myristic acid (about 14 to 18%), oleic acid (about 12 to 16%) and caprylic and capric acids (about 5 to 7%).
What it does for hair: It is commonly used across West Africa before washing, to condition the scalp and shield the hair shaft from stripping. It suits people who find coconut oil does the job but want more cushion.
Traditional use: Palm kernel oil has been used for hair conditioning across West Africa for generations, before and after washing. Baraka sells palm kernel oil.
Best for: coily and curly hair, a pre-wash step, and very dry hair. It is white and leaves no colour on hair, unlike red palm oil, which stains clothing and towels.
How do you use African oil for hair growth?
Use each oil at the step where it works best. That is how to use African oil for hair growth in practice: as a routine that supports the scalp and cuts breakage, not as a growth booster. Start with one step and add others slowly.
- Scalp oiling, 2 to 3 times a week. Put 3 to 5 drops of baobab oil on the scalp for each section, using a dropper. Massage with your fingertips for 1 to 2 minutes. No rinse needed. For more ideas, see DIY Scalp Treatment Recipes.
- Pre-wash oil, once a week. Work coconut oil or palm kernel oil through scalp and hair. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 30 to 60 minutes before shampooing.
- Sealing after washing. On slightly damp hair, smooth in a few drops of baobab oil to hold in moisture before styling. Very dry or coily hair can add a little coconut or palm kernel oil on top.
For hair masks and conditioners, see DIY Hair Mask Recipes Using African Oils and DIY Hair Conditioner Recipes. For a full wash-day collection, see DIY Hair Care Mastery: 10 Natural Recipes for Every Hair Type.
A simple pre-wash oil blend
This is a rinse-off blend with no water, so it needs no special storage beyond a cool, closed jar.
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) melted coconut oil
- 1 tablespoon (15 ml) baobab oil
- Melt the coconut oil gently until it is just liquid.
- Stir in the baobab oil.
- Work it through dry hair and onto the scalp, cover with a shower cap and leave for 30 to 60 minutes.
- Shampoo as usual. You may need to shampoo twice.
Buy the ingredients now
This recipe uses two Baraka ingredients. One click takes both straight to checkout.
- Baraka Baobab Oil, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for three batches
- Baraka Virgin Coconut Oil, 3.5 oz (100 g): enough for three batches
What oil is not good to put in hair?
Any oil can be the wrong oil for your hair. It depends on your hair type and scalp. If you are asking what oil not to put in hair, these are the common ones to avoid or use with care.
- A heavy oil on low-porosity or fine hair. Coconut oil and other heavy oils can sit on the surface and build up. Try a lighter oil such as baobab oil.
- Mineral oil and petroleum jelly. Many people in the natural hair community avoid them because they coat the hair and do not absorb.
- Scented oils and oils with added fragrance. These can irritate a sensitive scalp.
- Too much of any oil. Oil piled onto the scalp can leave it feeling greasy and can attract dirt.
- Red palm oil. It is a different oil from palm kernel oil and it stains clothing, towels and pillowcases.
- Any oil on a sore, broken or very irritated scalp. Ask a doctor or pharmacist first.
Test any new oil on a small area first and see how your hair and scalp respond over a few washes.
What Each Ingredient Does
- Baobab oil: light and quick to absorb. Adds slip and softness without a heavy feel.
- Coconut oil: penetrating. Gives a firmer, richer feel and works well before washing.
- Palm kernel oil: rich and cushioning. Adds conditioning without leaving colour.
How to Change the Texture
The rule of thumb: butters make it rich, oils make it soft and light, wax makes it hold its shape.
- Lighter and runnier: use more baobab oil and less coconut oil.
- Richer and thicker: add a little more coconut or palm kernel oil, or a small spoonful of shea butter.
- Firmer: use more coconut oil and keep the blend cool.
- Softer: use more baobab oil.
Make It Your Own
These recipes are a starting point, not a rulebook. Use your judgement, be inspired, and don't be afraid to experiment. Everything here is a pure, natural ingredient that blends happily with the others. Start with a small batch, write down what you did, and see how your hair and scalp respond. When you find a blend that works for you, make it again.
Where to Find These Ingredients
Baraka's baobab oil, traditional coconut oil and palm kernel oil are sourced through cooperative relationships in West Africa and processed with zero chemical extraction. For the full sourcing story, see Baraka's Social and Environmental Impact Report. Browse the Butters Collection and DIY Ingredients Collection.
Not sure what your hair needs? Take the Hair Type Matcher quiz: a few quick questions match your hair type to a simple routine with West African butters and oils.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do plant oils actually make hair grow faster?
As Baraka's guide notes, there is no clinical evidence that plant oils make hair grow faster. Growth rate depends on genetics, hormones, nutrition and health. Oils support the scalp and reduce breakage, which decides how much grown hair you keep. Many people in the natural hair community report better length retention with regular oil use.
Is coconut oil good for natural hair?
Coconut oil, which Baraka sells as a virgin coconut oil, is one of the most studied plant oils for hair. Its lauric acid lets it enter the hair shaft, and used before washing it reduces protein loss. It suits high-porosity, coily and curly hair. On low-porosity hair it can build up, so baobab oil or shea oil may suit better.
What is palm kernel oil and how is it different from coconut oil?
Palm kernel oil, which Baraka sells, comes from the hard seed inside the oil palm fruit. It is a white, nearly odourless solid with lauric acid like coconut oil, but more oleic acid, so it is a little richer. It is not red palm oil, which comes from the pulp and stains.
Can I use these oils on a dry or flaking scalp?
Baraka's baobab oil and coconut oil are the kinds of oils commonly used for dry scalps linked to low sebum, seasonal dryness or product buildup. They are not treatments for seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema or any diagnosed scalp condition. If flaking is persistent, severe, red or itchy, see a dermatologist.
How often should I oil my scalp and hair?
Baraka recommends baobab oil on the scalp 2 to 3 times a week. A coconut or palm kernel oil pre-wash once a week. A few drops of baobab or shea oil on damp hair after each wash. Small, regular amounts work better than large, occasional ones.
About the Author
Wayne Dunn is the founder of Baraka Impact and a former Professor of Practice in Sustainability at McGill University. He holds an M.Sc. in Management from Stanford and has spent over 15 years working directly with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region, which makes Baraka's shea butter, kombo butter and black soap. He shares DIY hair care and skincare recipes designed to be made at home with real ingredients. For the complete collection, see DIY Hair Care Mastery: 10 Natural Recipes for Every Hair Type.
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