DIY Pre-Shampoo Treatment Recipes: Using African Oils Before You Wash

April 7, 2023
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Wayne Dunn

To pre-poo with oil, put an oil or butter on dry or damp hair before you wash it, leave it for 20 to 60 minutes, then shampoo as usual. Many people with curly and coily hair report that it makes wash day gentler. These five recipes use Baraka shea butter, shea oil and baobab oil, plus traditional coconut oil. For a full guide to shea butter in hair care, see Shea Butter for Hair: The Complete Guide.

Quick answers

How do you pre-poo with oil?

Baraka's guide suggests you section dry or damp hair, smooth the oil from root to tip, and focus on the ends. Cover with a shower cap, wait 20 to 60 minutes, then shampoo. Do it before you step into the shower.

What are the best DIY pre-shampoo treatment recipes for natural hair?

Baraka's five simple blends: classic coconut, a light baobab and shea oil mix, a deep coconut and baobab mix, a rich shea butter blend for very dry hair, and a scalp-only blend. Amounts are below.

Which oils are best for pre-poo on 4C hair?

As Baraka's guide notes, coconut oil and baobab oil are the usual starting points, and many people with 4C hair add a little shea butter to the ends. Fine or low-porosity hair usually prefers lighter oils.

How long should you leave a pre-shampoo treatment on, and can you leave it overnight?

Baraka recommends leaving it on for 15 to 30 minutes for light oils and 45 to 60 minutes for richer blends. Overnight is common for very dry hair, with a satin cap or scarf.


How do you pre-poo with oil?

A pre-poo (pre-shampoo treatment) is an oil or butter applied before you wash. The steps are the same whichever recipe you choose.

  1. Start with dry or damp hair, not soaking wet. Wet hair has already begun to swell with water, so the oil has less to do.
  2. Divide your hair into four to six sections. Clip them up.
  3. Warm a small amount of oil or butter between your palms. Smooth it over each section from root to tip. Spend extra time on the ends, which are the oldest and driest part of the hair.
  4. Gently detangle with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the oil is on the hair. The oil adds slip, so tangles move more easily.
  5. Cover with a shower cap. The warmth from your scalp helps the oil spread and soften the hair.
  6. Wait 20 to 60 minutes, then shampoo. Follow with conditioner.

Why people pre-poo

When hair soaks up water, each strand swells, and it shrinks again as it dries. Over many wash days, this swelling and drying is called hygral fatigue, and it is thought to weaken the hair, especially high-porosity hair. Many people report that an oil coating before washing slows this water uptake and leaves hair feeling softer and easier to detangle. Some studies on coconut oil suggest it can reduce protein loss from hair during washing.

Oil also adds slip for detangling. Textured hair is easily damaged by pulling at tangles, so detangling before the hair is wetted is a common reason people pre-poo. Sulphate and clarifying shampoos also remove the hair's natural oils as well as buildup. With a pre-poo on, many people find their hair feels less stripped afterwards.

This is DIY advice, not medical advice. It is not a treatment for any scalp or hair condition.


What are the best DIY pre-shampoo treatment recipes for natural hair?

These DIY natural hair care recipes suit curly, coily and Black hair, and they work as DIY pre-shampoo treatment recipes for natural hair, curly hair and fine hair alike. Each one uses simple ingredients with no water, and you can make it in minutes. Store your own homemade blend in a clean jar or dropper bottle.

Recipe 1: Classic Coconut Pre-Poo (all hair types)

The most widely used pre-poo. It is one ingredient, and the traditional choice in the natural hair community.

Ingredients:
3.5 oz (100 g) traditional coconut oil

Steps:
1. If the coconut oil is solid, melt it gently on low heat until liquid. Let it cool until warm, not hot.
2. Pour it into a dropper or squeezy bottle for easy application.

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How to use: Section dry hair into four to six sections. Apply from root to tip, with extra on the ends. Put a small amount on the scalp and massage gently. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 30 to 60 minutes, or overnight for very dry hair. Shampoo as normal.

Best for: All hair types, especially high-porosity, coily and curly hair.

Recipe 2: Baobab Lightweight Pre-Poo (fine and low-porosity hair)

A light blend for fine hair, low-porosity hair or an oily scalp. It is a good pre shampoo oil treatment for fine hair that finds coconut oil too heavy.

Ingredients:
2.5 oz (70 g) baobab oil
1.1 oz (30 g) shea oil

Steps:
1. Combine the oils in a dropper bottle. Shake gently.
2. Label with the date. Keep at room temperature.

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How to use: Apply to dry hair in sections from root to tip. Massage three to five drops into the scalp per section. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 20 to 30 minutes. Shampoo as normal.

Best for: Fine hair, low-porosity hair and oily scalps.

Recipe 3: Deep Coconut and Baobab Pre-Poo (coily and curly hair)

Coconut oil is the base, and baobab oil adds extra slip for detangling.

Ingredients:
2.1 oz (60 g) traditional coconut oil
1.4 oz (40 g) baobab oil

Steps:
1. Melt the coconut oil gently if solid, then let it cool to liquid.
2. Combine with the baobab oil in a bottle. Shake.
3. Label with the date.

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How to use: Apply generously to dry hair in sections, scalp to ends. Detangle with fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the oil is on. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 30 to 45 minutes. Shampoo thoroughly and condition.

Best for: Coily (4A to 4C) and curly (3A to 3C) hair, and wash days with a lot of detangling.

Recipe 4: Shea Butter Pre-Poo for Very Dry Hair

A dense blend for very dry, coily hair. Shea butter coats the hair, and baobab oil adds slip.

Ingredients:
1.8 oz (50 g) unrefined shea butter
1.1 oz (30 g) traditional coconut oil
0.7 oz (20 g) baobab oil

Steps:
1. Melt the shea butter and coconut oil together on low heat for five to seven minutes.
2. Take off the heat and cool for three minutes.
3. Stir in the baobab oil and pour into a clean jar.
4. Let it set fully, about 45 to 60 minutes, before sealing. Label with the date.

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How to use: Warm a small amount between your palms. Apply to dry hair in sections, mostly on the mid-lengths and ends. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 45 to 60 minutes, or overnight. Shampoo at least twice, because this blend takes more washing out. Follow with conditioner.

Best for: Very dry, coily hair and cold-weather wash days. Not for fine or low-porosity hair. Use Recipe 1 or 2 instead.

Recipe 5: Scalp-Focused Pre-Poo

A light blend for the scalp only, applied before shampooing.

Ingredients:
2.1 oz (60 g) baobab oil
1.4 oz (40 g) traditional coconut oil, melted

Steps:
1. Melt the coconut oil if solid, then let it cool to liquid.
2. Combine with the baobab oil in a dropper bottle. Shake.
3. Label with the date.

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This recipe uses two Baraka ingredients. One click takes both straight to checkout.

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How to use: Part your hair and put three to five drops on the scalp per section. Massage with your fingertips for one to two minutes. Keep it off the hair shaft. Cover with a shower cap and leave for 30 minutes. Shampoo and condition as normal. For more scalp recipes, see DIY Scalp Treatment Recipes.

Best for: A scalp that feels tight or dry before washing, especially in winter.

Note: This is for everyday dryness. It is not a treatment for seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis or any diagnosed scalp condition. If you have a persistent or diagnosed scalp problem, ask a doctor or dermatologist.


Which oils are best for pre-poo on 4C hair?

There is no single best oil, because 4C hair varies in porosity and density. These are the usual choices, and the best pre poo oils for 4C hair often mix two of them.

Coconut oil is the most studied and most used pre-poo oil. It is high in lauric acid (about 47 to 52%), and some studies suggest it can reduce protein loss from hair during washing. Many people with 4C hair start here.

Baobab oil is lighter. It is made by hand in Ghana and has a balance of omega-3, 6 and 9 fatty acids. It adds slip for detangling and rarely feels heavy, so it suits fine strands, low porosity and an oily scalp. For more, see Baobab Oil: Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes.

Shea butter is the richest option. Baraka's unrefined shea butter is made by hand at the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana. It contains vitamins A and E and is a favourite for dry, coily ends. It is too heavy on its own for fine or oily hair, so blend it with lighter oils.

Shea oil is made from unrefined shea butter and made by hand in Ghana. It is liquid at room temperature, so it sits between baobab oil and shea butter. It is a useful middle choice when baobab oil feels too light but shea butter feels too heavy.

For pre wash hair oil for ends, rub a few drops of a rich blend such as Recipe 3 or 4 into the last few inches of each section. For a fine-hair pre-poo, pick Recipe 2. A lighter touch is better: you can always add more.


How long should you leave a pre-shampoo treatment on, and can you leave it overnight?

Leave a light oil blend on for 15 to 30 minutes. Leave a richer blend on for 45 to 60 minutes. Overnight is fine for very dry or high-porosity hair if you protect your pillow.

  • 15 to 30 minutes: Light blends such as Recipes 2 and 5. Even 20 minutes is a common minimum.
  • 30 to 60 minutes: Coconut-based blends such as Recipes 1 and 3.
  • 45 to 60 minutes or overnight: The shea butter blend, Recipe 4. Wear a satin cap or scarf and cover the pillow with a towel, because oils can mark fabric.

Should you apply it to dry or damp hair? Dry or slightly damp hair is best. Apply it before you get in the shower, and shampoo twice if the blend is rich.


What each ingredient does in a pre-poo

  • Coconut oil: light but penetrating, and the one most people reach for to protect hair before washing.
  • Baobab oil: light and quick to absorb, with good slip for detangling.
  • Shea oil: soft and medium in weight, between baobab oil and shea butter.
  • Shea butter: rich and firm. It gives body to a blend and coats dry ends.

How to change the texture

Rule of thumb: butters make it rich, oils make it soft and light, wax makes it hold its shape. For a pre-poo you will mostly use butters and oils.

  • Firmer or richer: add 0.2 oz (6 g) more shea butter for every 3.5 oz (100 g) of blend.
  • Softer, thinner or runnier: swap some butter or coconut oil for baobab oil or shea oil.
  • Lighter: use more baobab oil and less coconut oil.

Change one thing at a time so you can see what made the difference.

After the pre-poo

A pre-poo does not replace conditioner. Follow every pre-poo with your usual conditioner or a hair mask. For recipes, see DIY Hair Conditioner Recipes and DIY Hair Mask Recipes Using African Oils. A pre-poo goes on before washing and protects. A mask goes on after washing and conditions. Many people use both.

Make It Your Own

These recipes are a starting point, not a rulebook. Use your judgement, be inspired, and don't be afraid to experiment. Everything here is a pure, natural ingredient that blends happily with the others. Start with a small batch, write down what you did, and see how your hair responds. When you find a blend that works for you, make it again.


More pre-poo questions

Does pre-poo promote hair growth?

As Baraka's guide explains, there is no clinical evidence that pre-poo makes hair grow. Many people report less breakage on wash day, and hair that breaks less keeps its length. That is breakage reduction, not growth. See Natural Hair Growth Oils: African Botanicals.

Can I pre-poo on colour-treated or relaxed hair?

Many people do. Processed hair is often more porous, so use lighter Baraka blends such as Recipe 1 or 2 rather than the shea butter blend.

Should I pre-poo before every wash?

At Baraka, we find practice varies. Many people with coily hair do it every wash. Others do it only before shampoo washes, not conditioner-only washes. Start with shampoo days and adjust to how your hair feels.


Where to find these ingredients

Baraka's ingredients are processed with zero chemical extraction, and chain-of-custody documentation is available on request. Baraka is Community Certified Fair Trade. Find shea butter, shea oil and baobab oil in the store, or browse the Butters Collection and DIY Ingredients Collection. For customer stories, see Baraka Customer Stories. For the full set of wash-day recipes, see DIY Hair Care Mastery: 10 Natural Recipes for Every Hair Type.


About the author

Wayne Dunn is the founder of Baraka Impact and a former Professor of Practice in Sustainability at McGill University. He holds an M.Sc. in Management from Stanford and has spent over 15 years working with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region. He shares DIY hair care and skincare recipes made at home with real ingredients.

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