Best Ingredients for DIY Skincare: African Oils, Butters, and How to Use Them

This guide covers the key ingredients for DIY skincare — shea butter, coconut oil, kombo butter, cocoa butter, baobab oil, and shea oil — with seven body butter and balm recipes for practical starting points. For the complete shea butter reference, see Shea Butter Benefits: The Complete Guide to What Raw Shea Butter Does for Skin, Hair, and DIY. For the complete DIY natural skincare guide, see DIY Natural Skincare Guide: The Complete Reference for Making Your Own Products. For the complete shea butter DIY guide, see Shea Butter: The Ultimate DIY Ingredient.

For the complete baobab oil DIY guide, see Baobab Oil: Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes. For the complete kombo butter guide, see Kombo Butter: The Complete Guide. For the palm kernel oil guide, see Palm Kernel Oil: Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes. For the broader context on African ingredients in beauty, see Beauty Benefits of Shea Butter and Other African Ingredients.

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What Makes African Butters and Oils Different for DIY Skincare

The six ingredients covered in this guide — shea butter, coconut oil, kombo butter, cocoa butter, baobab oil, and shea oil — all share a common characteristic that makes them particularly well-suited to DIY skincare: they are anhydrous (water-free) in their natural state. This means that in their unblended form, they do not require a preservative. A jar of raw shea butter or baobab oil, properly stored in a cool dry location, will remain usable for 12–24 months without any additives. This is fundamentally different from commercial moisturisers, which are primarily water-based emulsions held together with synthetic emulsifiers and preserved with broad-spectrum preservatives.

For DIY formulation, this anhydrous quality is a significant practical advantage. Body butters and balms made entirely from butters and oils — with no added water, aloe vera juice, or other water-based ingredients — can be made without a preservative. They are also more forgiving for beginners because they do not require emulsification equipment or preservative chemistry. The seven recipes at the end of this guide are all anhydrous formulations for this reason.

The African origin of these ingredients matters in a second practical way. Shea butter, kombo butter, and baobab oil are produced in West and Central Africa using traditional hand-processing methods that have been refined over generations. This traditional processing preserves the full unsaponifiable fraction of shea butter — the portion that contains the conditioning compounds — at levels that solvent-extracted shea butter cannot match. Understanding where ingredients come from and how they were processed is part of informed DIY formulation.

For a comparison of African-sourced butters and oils against conventional skincare alternatives, see Beauty Benefits of Shea Butter and Other African Ingredients.

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The Core Ingredients: Properties and DIY Uses

Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa)

Shea butter is extracted from the nuts of Vitellaria paradoxa trees. Its fatty acid profile — oleic acid (~45%), stearic acid (~35%), linoleic acid (~15%) — and high unsaponifiable fraction (6–17%) make it a widely used skin conditioning ingredient. It is semi-occlusive: it forms a breathable barrier on skin without completely sealing it, which is why it is commonly used in body butters rather than more occlusive barrier products. Unrefined shea butter retains its full unsaponifiable fraction including triterpenes, tocopherols, and phytosterols. Refined shea butter has had these compounds removed along with the characteristic scent. For the complete reference, see Shea Butter Benefits: The Complete Guide and Shea Butter: The Ultimate DIY Ingredient.

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil's high lauric acid content (45–55%) gives it a cleansing profile that makes it effective as a component of rinse-off products and oil cleansing blends. It is solid below approximately 24°C and liquid above — in warm climates it behaves as a liquid oil, in cooler climates it requires warming. In body butters it adds softness and contributes to a whipped texture when processed correctly. Virgin coconut oil retains its characteristic scent; refined coconut oil is scent-neutral and is sometimes preferable when the coconut scent would compete with essential oil fragrances.

Kombo Butter (Pycnanthus angolensis)

Kombo butter is extracted from the seeds of Pycnanthus angolensis trees, native to Central Africa. Its consistency is between shea butter and coconut oil — lighter than shea but with more body than a liquid oil. It melts easily in the hands and distributes evenly without stickiness. In body butter formulations, it contributes a softer, more pliable texture than shea butter alone. It has been used traditionally in West and Central African skin care for generations. For the complete reference, see Kombo Butter: The Complete Guide.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter is extracted from cacao beans. It is more occlusive than shea butter and sets firmer at room temperature — products using cocoa butter as the primary butter will be noticeably harder than shea-based equivalents. It melts at skin temperature, making it well-suited to lip balms, body bars, and conditioning balms for areas with thicker or very dry skin. Its characteristic chocolate scent persists unless deodorized. Deodorized cocoa butter has had the scent removed through steam processing and is scent-neutral.

Baobab Oil (Adansonia digitata)

Baobab oil is extracted from the seeds of Adansonia digitata trees. Its omega-3 (23–28%), omega-6 (28–32%), and omega-9 (33–36%) fatty acid balance makes it one of the lighter African oils — it absorbs quickly without leaving a heavy residue, making it suitable for all skin types including those prone to congestion. It is permanently liquid at room temperature. In body butter formulations it softens texture and improves spreadability. Its natural antioxidant content also slows rancidity in blended formulations, extending shelf life when added to butter blends. For the complete guide, see Baobab Oil: Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes.

Shea Oil

Shea oil is produced from shea butter through a winterisation process that removes the solid stearin fraction, leaving a permanently liquid oil. It retains the fatty acid profile and many of the conditioning properties of shea butter in liquid form. It is well-suited to use in oil blends, hair products, and lighter-textured leave-on formulations where solid shea butter would be too thick. As a liquid oil it behaves similarly to baobab oil in formulations.

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Choosing and Combining Ingredients: Practical Principles

The consistency of a body butter or balm is primarily determined by the ratio of solid butters to liquid oils. Higher butter content produces a firmer product; higher oil content produces a softer, more easily spreadable result. The two most common adjustments in DIY body butter formulation are: adding more liquid oil (baobab oil, shea oil) to soften a firm batch, or adding more cocoa butter to firm up a batch that is too soft for your climate.

Temperature at time of use matters more than most DIY guides acknowledge. A body butter formulated in a 20°C kitchen may be too firm to apply in a 30°C climate, and may melt to a pool of liquid in a bathroom shelf in summer heat. Cocoa butter raises the melting point of a blend; baobab oil and shea oil lower it. Knowing which direction to adjust for your climate is the most useful practical formulation skill.

Anhydrous formulations — butter-and-oil-only products with no water-based ingredients added — do not require a preservative. If you add any water-based ingredient (aloe vera juice, hydrosols, distilled water, plant teas, fresh ingredients like cucumber or fruit), the formulation immediately requires either a broad-spectrum preservative at the supplier's recommended usage rate, or must be made fresh before each use and discarded within 24–48 hours. This rule applies regardless of how small the water component is.

For the complete reference on DIY formulation principles, see DIY Natural Skincare Guide: The Complete Reference for Making Your Own Products.

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Where Baraka's Ingredients Come From

Baraka's shea butter, baobab oil, and other African-sourced ingredients are sourced through the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region. Wayne Dunn has maintained direct cooperative relationships with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre for over 15 years. Every batch is hand-processed using traditional methods — no solvents, no chemical extraction. The women at the cooperative receive a fair-trade premium directly, without intermediaries. For Fadila's story, see Your Impact: Abdulai Fadila. The full cooperative sourcing story is in Baraka's Social and Environmental Impact Report.

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7 Body Butter and Balm Recipes

All seven recipes below are anhydrous — no water-based ingredients. No preservative is required. Store in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight. All quantities are volume measurements; weight measurements will give more consistent results.

Recipe 1: Lavender Shea Body Butter

A classic body butter using shea butter, coconut oil, and cocoa butter as the base, with lavender essential oil for fragrance. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 12 months in a cool, dark location.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Shea Butter
• 1/4 cup Coconut Oil
• 1/4 cup Cocoa Butter
• 1 teaspoon Lavender Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. In a double boiler, gently melt the shea butter, coconut oil, and cocoa butter together until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly — approximately 5 minutes.
3. Stir in the lavender essential oil.
4. Allow the mixture to cool at room temperature until it begins to solidify around the edges — approximately 30–45 minutes depending on ambient temperature.
5. Whip with an electric mixer until light and fluffy — approximately 3–5 minutes.
6. Transfer to a clean jar. Store in a cool, dry location.

Troubleshooting: If the mixture is too soft after whipping, refrigerate for 10–15 minutes and whip again. If it is too firm to whip, allow it to warm slightly before whipping. For a softer texture suited to warmer climates, replace the cocoa butter with an additional 1/4 cup of baobab oil or shea oil.

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Recipe 2: Soothing Shea and Lavender Balm

A two-ingredient balm using shea butter and coconut oil. The simplest recipe in this guide — appropriate for first-time DIY formulation. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 12 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Shea Butter
• 1/4 cup Coconut Oil
• 1 teaspoon Lavender Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt shea butter and coconut oil in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Stir in the lavender essential oil.
4. Whip until light and fluffy. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: For a lighter texture, substitute baobab oil for coconut oil. For a stronger lavender scent, increase essential oil to 1.5 teaspoons — patch test at higher concentrations as lavender essential oil can cause sensitivity in some individuals.

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Recipe 3: Creamy Coconut-Kombo Body Butter

A body butter using coconut oil and kombo butter. Kombo butter produces a lighter, more pliable texture than shea butter — suitable for those who find shea butter too heavy. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 12 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Coconut Oil
• 1/4 cup Kombo Butter
• 1 teaspoon Vanilla Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt coconut oil and kombo butter in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Stir in vanilla essential oil.
4. Whip until light and fluffy. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: This blend will be softer than shea-based body butters due to kombo butter's lighter texture. If too soft for your climate, substitute shea butter for kombo butter for a firmer result. Experiment with different essential oils — kombo butter's mild scent works well with woodsy or floral fragrances.

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Recipe 4: Cocoa Butter and Baobab Oil Balm

A firmer balm using cocoa butter and baobab oil. The cocoa butter base makes this firmer than shea-based butters — more appropriate for lip balms, elbow and heel conditioning, or climates where a softer body butter would melt. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 18 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Cocoa Butter
• 1/4 cup Baobab Oil
• 1 teaspoon Ylang-Ylang Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt cocoa butter and baobab oil in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Stir in ylang-ylang essential oil.
4. Whip until light and fluffy — cocoa butter-based blends set firmer than shea-based equivalents. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: Cocoa butter sets significantly firmer than shea butter — if the balm is too firm to apply comfortably, reduce cocoa butter to 1/3 cup and increase baobab oil to 1/3 cup. Add a small amount of beeswax (1 teaspoon) for a firmer bar-style texture. Try rose or jasmine essential oil as alternatives to ylang-ylang.

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Recipe 5: Shea Butter and Baobab Oil Body Butter

A lightweight body butter using shea butter and baobab oil. The baobab oil replaces coconut oil or cocoa butter as the liquid component, producing a softer texture that absorbs more readily. Well-suited to all skin types including those prone to congestion, as baobab oil's low comedogenic profile is better suited to face-adjacent application than coconut oil. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 12 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Shea Butter
• 1/4 cup Baobab Oil
• 1 teaspoon Orange Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt shea butter gently in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat. Stir in baobab oil until well combined.
3. Allow to cool until beginning to solidify around the edges.
4. Stir in orange essential oil.
5. Whip until light and fluffy. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: Orange essential oil is photosensitising — do not apply to skin that will be exposed to direct sunlight within 12 hours. Substitute with a non-photosensitising essential oil (lavender, cedarwood, sandalwood) if the product will be used before sun exposure. Add a small amount of kombo butter for a slightly firmer texture. For a citrus variation, grapefruit or lemon essential oil can be substituted — same photosensitivity caution applies.

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Recipe 6: Coconut and Shea Body Butter

A body butter using coconut oil and shea butter. This is one of the most common body butter combinations — the coconut oil contributes to a lighter, more easily spreadable texture while the shea butter provides the conditioning base. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 12 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Coconut Oil
• 1/4 cup Shea Butter
• 1 teaspoon Patchouli Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt coconut oil and shea butter in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Stir in patchouli essential oil.
4. Whip until light and fluffy. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: This blend is softer than cocoa butter-based equivalents — in climates above 24°C the coconut oil will be liquid and the product may not hold a whipped texture at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator in warm climates. For a firmer blend, add kombo butter or cocoa butter. For different fragrance profiles, cedarwood or sandalwood work well with patchouli.

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Recipe 7: Cocoa Butter and Kombo Butter Balm

A firmer balm using cocoa butter and kombo butter. This all-butter combination (no liquid oil) produces the firmest texture in this guide. Anhydrous — no preservative required. Shelf life 18 months.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup Cocoa Butter
• 1/4 cup Kombo Butter
• 1 teaspoon Vanilla Essential Oil

Instructions:

1. Melt cocoa butter and kombo butter in a double boiler until just liquid.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
3. Stir in vanilla essential oil.
4. Whip until light and fluffy — this blend sets firm quickly. Work fast. Transfer to a jar.

Troubleshooting: This all-butter blend sets firmer than any of the other recipes in this guide — it is better suited to use as a concentrated body balm or conditioning bar than a spreadable body butter. To soften the texture, add 2 tablespoons of baobab oil or shea oil. Try ylang-ylang or jasmine as alternatives to vanilla.

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What the Evidence Actually Shows — and How to Check It Yourself

The conditioning and moisturising properties of shea butter, baobab oil, cocoa butter, and coconut oil are well-documented in the published literature. Shea butter's unsaponifiable fraction and its relationship to skin conditioning has been studied in multiple clinical and biochemical contexts. Baobab oil's fatty acid composition is well-characterised. These are not claims we have invented — they are measurable properties of the ingredients.

What the evidence does not establish is that any of these ingredients treats or heals specific skin conditions. We are not able to claim that any ingredient treats eczema, reverses ageing, or eliminates any skin condition. The recipes in this guide are body butters and balms — they condition and moisturise skin. That is their documented function.

To find supporting research, search: "shea butter skin conditioning unsaponifiable" / "baobab oil fatty acid composition skin" / "cocoa butter skin occlusive" / "kombo butter Pycnanthus angolensis traditional use"

To find opposing or qualifying evidence: "shea butter sensitisation" / "coconut oil comedogenic skin" / "natural oil skincare evidence review"

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Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best butter to start with for DIY body butter?

Shea butter is the most forgiving starting point for DIY body butter formulation. It has a wide melting range, whips well without special equipment, and is available in consistent quality from reputable suppliers. A simple starting recipe is shea butter with baobab oil (2:1 ratio by volume) — two cups shea butter to one cup baobab oil, whipped after cooling. This produces a soft, easily spreadable body butter that works in most climates. For a comprehensive starting guide, see Shea Butter: The Ultimate DIY Ingredient.

Do homemade body butters need a preservative?

Anhydrous formulations — those containing only butters and oils with no water-based ingredients — do not require a preservative. All seven recipes in this guide are anhydrous. If you add any water-based ingredient (aloe vera juice, rose water, plant teas, fresh fruit or vegetable ingredients), the formulation immediately requires a broad-spectrum preservative at the supplier's recommended usage rate, or must be made fresh and discarded within 24–48 hours. This rule applies regardless of how small the water component is.

What is the difference between shea butter and kombo butter?

Shea butter (Vitellaria paradoxa) is a semi-solid fat with a fatty acid profile dominated by oleic and stearic acids — it is semi-occlusive and forms a breathable barrier on skin. Kombo butter (Pycnanthus angolensis) has a lighter consistency — softer and more pliable than shea butter — making it better suited to formulations where shea butter would be too heavy or sticky. In body butter recipes, substituting kombo butter for shea butter produces a softer, more easily spreadable product. The two can be blended in any ratio. For the complete reference, see Kombo Butter: The Complete Guide.

What is the difference between baobab oil and shea oil?

Baobab oil (from Adansonia digitata seeds) is a pressed vegetable oil with a balanced omega-3, -6, and -9 fatty acid profile — it absorbs readily and suits all skin types. Shea oil is produced from shea butter through winterisation — the removal of the solid stearin fraction — leaving a permanently liquid oil that retains much of shea butter's conditioning profile in liquid form. Both are suitable as the liquid oil component in body butter formulations. Baobab oil is lighter and better suited to face-adjacent use; shea oil has a conditioning profile closer to shea butter and is particularly suited to hair applications.

Can I use these recipes on my face?

Recipes 2 and 5 — the shea-only and shea-baobab combinations — are the most appropriate for facial use among the seven recipes in this guide. Coconut oil (Recipes 1, 3, 6) has a comedogenic rating of 4 and is not recommended as a primary leave-on ingredient on acne-prone or congestion-prone facial skin. Cocoa butter (Recipes 4, 7) is more occlusive than shea butter and is better suited to body and neck use than facial use for most skin types. Baobab oil's low comedogenic profile makes it the most appropriate liquid oil for facial formulations.

Where does Baraka source its shea butter and baobab oil?

Baraka's shea butter and baobab oil are sourced through the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region. Every batch is hand-processed using traditional methods — no solvents, no chemical extraction. Wayne Dunn has maintained direct cooperative relationships with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre for over 15 years. The women at the cooperative receive a fair-trade premium directly, without intermediaries. For the full sourcing story, see Baraka's Social and Environmental Impact Report.

What is the difference between refined and unrefined shea butter?

Unrefined shea butter retains its full unsaponifiable fraction (6–17% of the butter's composition) — the portion that contains the triterpenes, tocopherols, and phytosterols responsible for its documented conditioning properties. It also retains its characteristic ivory colour and nutty scent. Refined shea butter has been processed to remove the scent and colour, which also removes significant portions of the unsaponifiable fraction. For DIY skincare where conditioning properties matter, unrefined is preferable. For formulations where a neutral scent base is required, refined is appropriate. Note: "raw and unrefined" labels are legally permitted on factory-produced, chemically extracted shea butter — ask your supplier for chain-of-custody documentation. For the complete reference, see Shea Butter Benefits: The Complete Guide.

How do I adjust body butter recipes for my climate?

In warm climates (above 24°C), coconut oil liquefies and body butter blends may melt at room temperature. To maintain a whipped texture in warm climates, increase the proportion of cocoa butter (raises the melting point) or reduce the proportion of coconut oil. In cooler climates (below 18°C), body butter blends set firmer than their formulated texture — increase baobab oil, shea oil, or kombo butter to soften. The most climate-stable body butters use cocoa butter as the primary butter with a small proportion of liquid oil — they remain solid in summer heat while softening on skin contact.

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About the Author

Wayne Dunn is the founder of Baraka Impact and a former Professor of Practice in Sustainability at McGill University. He holds an M.Sc. in Management from Stanford and has spent over 15 years working directly with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region to source traditionally made shea butter and natural oils. He shares DIY skincare recipes and ingredient guides designed to be made at home with real ingredients — and sourced with full transparency about where they come from.