DIY Skincare for Winter: Barrier Repair and Cold Weather Skin

Winter does something specific to skin that no other season does quite as efficiently. Cold air holds less moisture than warm air — so the moment you step outside, you are moving into an environment that is actively drawing moisture away from your skin's surface. Come back indoors and central heating removes what little humidity remains. Add wind to either environment and the rate of moisture loss accelerates further.

The result, for most people, is a sustained attack on the skin's barrier function that compounds week by week through the season. Skin that manages well in September can be genuinely uncomfortable by January — not because anything has changed in your routine, but because the conditions your skin is operating in have changed considerably. For a full primer on DIY skincare principles that underpin everything in this guide, DIY Natural Skincare: The Complete Guide to Making Your Own Products at Home covers the foundations.

This guide covers three things: what winter is actually doing to your skin, which ingredients address it most directly, and two simple recipes you can make at home — a winter barrier balm for the body and a facial oil blend for daily use.

What Winter Actually Does to Skin

The skin's barrier — the outermost layer that keeps moisture in and irritants out — relies on a combination of lipids, proteins, and water content to function correctly. Winter disrupts all three simultaneously.

Cold outdoor air is low in absolute humidity. Every minute your skin is exposed to it, water evaporates from the surface faster than it can be replaced. Central heating compounds this: heated indoor air is even drier than cold outdoor air in relative humidity terms. Wind adds a third layer of stress — it physically accelerates evaporation from the skin's surface and, in severe cases, causes wind burn, which is essentially the outer skin layer being abraded and dried simultaneously.

The practical result is that skin in winter needs more occlusive protection — ingredients that physically slow moisture loss — than in any other season. Light lotions and water-based moisturisers that work well in summer are often insufficient. They add moisture that evaporates quickly, leaving skin no better protected than before.

For people managing eczema-prone or psoriasis-prone skin, winter conditions are particularly challenging. Cold, dry air is one of the most commonly reported triggers for flare-ups. If that applies to you, Shea Butter for Eczema and Shea Butter for Psoriasis-Prone Skin: What the Traditional Use Evidence Shows cover the specific considerations for those skin types in more detail.

Why Anhydrous Butters Outperform Winter Lotions

Commercial winter lotions are mostly water — typically 70 to 80 percent — held together with emulsifiers and preserved with synthetic chemicals. They feel good on application because the water content provides immediate surface hydration. That surface hydration evaporates within an hour, often leaving skin feeling drier than before because the emulsifiers and preservatives remain on the surface.

Anhydrous products — those made entirely from butters and oils with no water — work differently. They do not add moisture to skin; they slow the rate at which moisture already in skin escapes. This is called occlusion, and it is the most effective mechanism available for protecting skin under sustained cold weather stress.

The butters and oils used in these recipes have been applied to skin for generations in West Africa — including through the Harmattan season, when dry, dust-laden winds from the Sahara create exactly the kind of harsh, drying conditions that mature and sensitive skin faces year-round. Commercial skincare was not designed for this. African butters were. They contain no water, require no preservatives, and have fatty acid profiles that match human skin — which is why they absorb genuinely rather than coating the surface and evaporating.

The Three Winter Ingredients — and When to Use Each 

Shea butter — the foundation. Shea butter is the most versatile winter ingredient for body skin. Its high oleic and stearic acid content creates a genuine occlusive barrier without feeling heavy once absorbed. It melts at body temperature, absorbs within a few minutes, and is well tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin. Apply to slightly damp skin immediately after showering for best results — the butter locks in the surface moisture before it evaporates.

Kombo butter — for deep cold weather penetration. Kombo butter is significantly harder than shea butter and has a higher melting point. It delivers a warming sensation on contact with skin — a physical effect of its dense fatty acid composition and the friction created as it penetrates. In winter, it is the ingredient of choice for hands, knees, elbows, and any area of persistent dryness that shea butter alone is not addressing. It is not a general body moisturiser — it is a targeted, high-performance cold weather ingredient used in small amounts on specific areas.

Baobab oil — for the face. Baobab oil absorbs in two to four minutes without leaving residue, making it practical for daily facial use in a way that heavier butters are not. Its omega fatty acid profile — including omega-3, which argan oil lacks — supports skin conditioning through extended cold weather exposure. It is stable enough to last a full winter season without oxidising. Two to three drops on clean skin morning or evening is sufficient for most people.

Choose shea butter when you need general body coverage and all-over winter conditioning. Choose kombo butter when a specific area — hands, knees, elbows — is not responding to shea butter alone. Choose baobab oil for the face and for any area where you need fast absorption without heaviness. All three can be used together as a complete winter routine, each at the step where it performs best. For a deeper comparison of these two butters side by side, DIY Skincare for Skiers: Cold Weather, Wind Burn, and Barrier Repair covers extreme cold weather conditions in detail.

Recipe 1 — Winter Barrier Balm

This is a firm, slow-melting balm designed for body use in cold weather. The kombo butter gives it staying power and targeted penetration. The shea butter provides the moisture foundation. Apply a small amount to hands, elbows, knees, and any persistently dry area — the warmth of your hands melts it on contact.

Ingredients (makes approx. 100g)

• 60g shea butter
• 25g kombo butter
• 15g baobab oil

Method: Melt shea butter and kombo butter together using a double boiler — kombo butter takes longer to melt than shea butter, so allow extra time. Remove from heat and stir in baobab oil. Pour into a small tin or wide-mouth jar while still liquid. Allow to set fully at room temperature — the kombo butter gives this balm a firmer set than a standard shea butter product. Apply a small amount to target areas and work in using circular motions. A little goes a long way.

For the complete guide to body butter ratios and techniques, see How to Make DIY Body Butter.

Recipe 2 — Winter Facial Oil Blend 

A simple two-ingredient facial oil for daily winter use. Baobab oil is the base — lightweight, fast-absorbing, well suited to daily facial application. A small addition of shea oil adds a richer conditioning layer without the heaviness of solid shea butter on the face.

Ingredients (makes approx. 30ml)

• 25ml baobab oil
• 5ml shea oil

Method: Combine in a small dropper bottle. Shake gently before each use. Apply 2–3 drops to clean, slightly damp skin morning or evening — press in with the palms rather than rubbing. The blend absorbs in two to four minutes. Store away from direct sunlight. Shelf life approximately 12 months.

Note: This facial oil is suitable for most skin types. For very oily or acne-prone facial skin, use baobab oil alone without the shea oil addition and patch test first.

Shea Butter vs Kombo Butter — Choosing the Right Winter Ingredient

Kombo butter is significantly harder than shea butter and has a higher melting point. This makes it less suited for direct skin application on its own, but highly effective as a warming, deep-penetrating treatment for hands, knees, elbows, and feet. Shea butter is the better choice for general body moisturising. Kombo butter is the better choice when you want a warming sensation and deeper penetration in specific areas. The two work well together — shea butter as the moisture base, kombo butter for targeted comfort.

For people dealing with extreme cold weather conditions — skiing, outdoor work, extended exposure — the considerations are similar but the formulations need to be more robust. DIY Skincare for the Beach: Sun, Salt, and Sand Protection and Recovery covers the opposite seasonal extreme for reference.

Winter Skin and Condition-Prone Skin

Cold, dry air is one of the most consistently reported environmental triggers for people managing eczema-prone and psoriasis-prone skin. The mechanism is straightforward — sustained barrier stress from low humidity, heating, and wind creates the conditions in which already-compromised skin is most likely to flare. Heavier, more occlusive skincare in winter is standard advice for these skin types.

Shea butter is commonly used for very dry and eczema-prone skin. A heavier winter routine — applied immediately after bathing while skin is still slightly damp — is the most practical approach for maintaining barrier function through the season. For detailed guidance on these skin types, Natural Remedies for Eczema-Prone Skin: A West African Skincare Perspective covers the full picture.

Note: The information in this article is not medical advice and is not a substitute for professional care. If your skin is actively flaring or being medically managed, please keep your healthcare provider in the loop before changing your skincare routine.

Where These Ingredients Come From

Baraka's shea butter, kombo butter, and baobab oil are sourced directly through the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region. Wayne Dunn has maintained direct cooperative relationships with the centre for over 15 years. Every ingredient is hand-processed using traditional water-based methods — no chemical extraction at any stage. The women at the cooperative receive a fair-trade premium directly, without intermediaries.

Felicia Solomon is one of the women behind these ingredients. Celebrating Mothers: Felicia Solomon shares her story — what the work means and what the income makes possible for her and her family in Ghana's Upper West Region.

The complete picture of Baraka's sourcing model and its impact on the cooperative community is documented in Baraka's Social and Environmental Impact Report. Browse the full range of traditionally sourced ingredients in the DIY Ingredients Collection and Oils Collection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does skin get so dry in winter?

Cold air holds significantly less moisture than warm air — so outdoor air in winter is inherently drying. Central heating removes what little moisture remains indoors. Wind accelerates water loss from the skin's surface. The result is a sustained attack on the skin's barrier function from multiple directions simultaneously. Skin that manages well in summer can become genuinely uncomfortable in winter without any change in skincare routine — because the routine that worked in summer is no longer sufficient for the conditions.

What is the best natural moisturiser for winter skin?

For body skin in winter, shea butter is the most effective single-ingredient option. It is anhydrous — no water — so it does not evaporate the way lotions do. Its fatty acid profile closely matches human skin, which is why it absorbs genuinely rather than sitting as a surface film. For very cold conditions or areas of persistent dryness, a blend of shea butter and kombo butter delivers deeper penetration with a warming sensation. For facial skin, baobab oil absorbs quickly without heaviness and is well suited to daily winter use.

Why is shea butter better than a winter body lotion?

Commercial winter lotions are mostly water — typically 70 to 80 percent — held together with emulsifiers and preserved with synthetic chemicals. The moisture they deliver evaporates quickly, often within an hour. Shea butter contains no water and requires no preservatives. It creates a genuine occlusive layer that slows moisture loss from the skin rather than adding moisture that evaporates. For skin under sustained cold weather stress, that difference in staying power matters considerably.

What is kombo butter and why is it useful in winter?

Kombo butter is extracted from the seed of the Pycnanthus angolensis tree, native to West Africa. It is a hard, waxy butter with a higher melting point than shea butter, and it delivers a warming sensation on contact with skin. In winter formulations, kombo butter is particularly useful for hands, knees, elbows, and any area of persistent dryness that needs deeper penetration than shea butter alone provides. It is not a general body moisturiser — it is a targeted, high-performance cold weather ingredient.

Is baobab oil good for the face in winter?

Yes — baobab oil is one of the better choices for facial use in winter precisely because it absorbs quickly without leaving residue. Its omega fatty acid profile, including omega-3, supports skin conditioning through extended cold weather exposure. It is lightweight enough for daily facial use, stable enough to last a full winter season without oxidising, and absorbs in two to four minutes without the heaviness that makes richer butters impractical for facial skin. Apply two to three drops to clean skin morning or evening.

Does cold weather make eczema and psoriasis worse?

Cold, dry air is one of the most commonly reported triggers for flare-ups in people managing eczema-prone and psoriasis-prone skin. The combination of low outdoor humidity, central heating, and wind creates sustained barrier stress that can worsen existing dryness and sensitivity. Many people find they need a heavier, more occlusive skincare routine in winter than in summer. Shea butter is commonly used for very dry and eczema-prone skin. If your skin is actively flaring or medically managed, keep your healthcare provider in the loop before changing your routine.

About the Author

Wayne Dunn is the founder of Baraka Impact and a former Professor of Practice in Sustainability at McGill University. He holds an M.Sc. in Management from Stanford and has spent over 15 years working directly with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region to source traditionally made shea butter and natural oils. He shares DIY skincare recipes and ingredient guides designed to be made at home with real ingredients — and sourced with full transparency about where they come from.