DIY Lip Balm Guide: How to Make Natural Lip Balm with African Butters
To make lip balm at home, melt cocoa butter and shea butter together, stir in a little baobab oil, pour it into tubes and let it set. Baraka's shea butter is made by hand at the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana, and it is one of the three core ingredients in this guide. Many people like homemade lip balm because they can see every ingredient and choose how firm or soft it is. Most shop-bought balms are based on petroleum jelly, which sits on top of the lips. A balm made from African butters is a different kind of product, and many people find it feels softer and more natural.
This guide gives four beginner-friendly recipes, what each ingredient does, how to change the texture and how to fix a first batch that goes wrong. For ten recipes at different levels, see the Complete Guide to DIY Natural Lip Balm. For more on the butter itself, read Shea Butter Benefits: The Complete Guide to What Raw Shea Butter Does for Skin, Hair, and DIY. For the wider picture, DIY Natural Skincare: The Complete Guide to Making Your Own Products at Home is the companion reference.
This is DIY advice, not medical advice. If your lips are very sore, cracked or not getting better, see a doctor or pharmacist.
How do you make lip balm at home?
Melt 60% cocoa butter and 30% shea butter in a heat-proof glass cup over simmering water. Take it off the heat and stir in 10% baobab oil. Pour at once into tubes or small pots and let it set at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours. Weigh everything on a digital scale, because butters and oils have different densities and cups give uneven results.
What you need
Equipment: a digital kitchen scale (accurate to 0.04 oz or 0.1 g), a heat-proof glass measuring cup, a small saucepan for a double boiler, a spatula and lip balm tubes or small pots. Have the containers open and ready before you start to melt anything.
The three core ingredients:
Cocoa butter gives structure. Its melting point of about 93–100°F (34–38°C) gives lip balm its shape and staying power. Without enough of it the balm melts in a warm pocket. Baraka's unrefined cocoa butter is from Ghana and has a real chocolate scent that fades on the lips. For more, see Cocoa Butter – Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes.
Shea butter gives softness and a moisturising feel. It is high in oleic acid (40–60%) and contains vitamins A and E. It softens the waxy feel that cocoa butter gives on its own. The ratio of cocoa butter to shea butter is the most important choice in any lip balm recipe.
Baobab oil gives a smooth glide. A small amount (5–10% of the total weight) makes the balm easier to apply without making it heavy. Baobab oil is made by hand in Ghana and has a balanced fatty acid profile that includes omega-3. Shea oil is a good alternative. It is made from unrefined shea butter, is made by hand in Ghana, is liquid at room temperature and is pale yellow to golden.
Optional: kombo butter for a firmer, richer balm. Kombo butter is traditionally used as a massage butter in Ghana. It is softer than cocoa butter and firmer than shea butter. Keep it at 20 to 30% of the shea and kombo blend. Patch test it first on the inside of your arm for 24 hours. Kombo butter is never for babies. It stains clothing and towels, so keep it off fabric. For more, see Kombo Butter – Ultimate DIY Guide and Recipes.
The basic method for all four recipes
- Weigh the butters on a digital scale.
- Melt the butters together in a heat-proof glass cup over a small saucepan of simmering water. Stir gently until fully liquid, with no solid pieces left.
- Take the cup off the heat. Stir in the liquid oil straight away and work quickly.
- Pour at once into lip balm tubes or small pots. Tap gently to release air bubbles.
- Let it set at room temperature. Do not refrigerate. Setting takes 2 to 3 hours.
- Cap once fully set and label with the date you made it.
The two most common mistakes are pouring too slowly, so the mixture starts to set in the cup, and chilling the balm to speed things up, which can leave a pitted or cracked surface.
Recipe 1: Classic everyday lip balm
This is the starting point for most people. It is firm enough for a pocket and soft enough to glide on easily.
Ingredients (makes about 6 tubes or small pots)
- 1.4 oz (40 g) cocoa butter
- 0.7 oz (20 g) shea butter
- 0.2 oz (5 g) baobab oil
Method: Melt the cocoa butter and shea butter together. Take off the heat and stir in the baobab oil. Pour at once and let it set at room temperature.
Buy the ingredients now
This recipe uses three Baraka ingredients. One click takes all three straight to checkout.
- Baraka Cocoa Butter, 3.5 oz (100 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Raw Shea Butter, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Baobab Oil, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for several batches
Troubleshooting: If it is too soft, add 0.2 oz (5 g) more cocoa butter next time. If it is too hard to apply smoothly, use 0.2 oz (5 g) less cocoa butter and 0.2 oz (5 g) more shea butter. If it feels grainy, the shea butter has recrystallised. Remelt it completely, then repour at a higher temperature and do not stir after pouring.
Recipe 2: Extra firm summer lip balm
This has more cocoa butter for warm climates, summer days or anyone who finds the classic recipe too soft. It holds its shape better in a warm car or pocket.
Ingredients (makes about 6 tubes)
- 1.8 oz (50 g) cocoa butter
- 0.4 oz (10 g) shea butter
- 0.2 oz (5 g) baobab oil
Method: Follow the basic method. The higher cocoa butter share gives a noticeably firmer set, so press a little harder than with the classic balm.
Buy the ingredients now
This recipe uses three Baraka ingredients. One click takes all three straight to checkout.
- Baraka Cocoa Butter, 3.5 oz (100 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Raw Shea Butter, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for five batches
- Baraka Baobab Oil, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for several batches
Troubleshooting: A grainy surface means it cooled too slowly before pouring. Remelt and repour at a higher temperature. If it is too hard to apply, use 1.6 oz (45 g) cocoa butter and 0.5 oz (15 g) shea butter.
Recipe 3: Pregnancy-safe and baby-safe lip balm
This one has three simple ingredients, with no essential oils, no fragrance and no kombo butter. Pour it into small wide-mouth pots rather than tubes, which are easier for a caregiver to use. For more on skincare during pregnancy, see Natural Skincare for Pregnancy and Babies: What Is Safe, What to Avoid, and How to Use It. For a full baby skin recipe with the same ingredients, see DIY Baby Balm: A Simple Natural Recipe for Sensitive Baby Skin.
Ingredients (makes about 6 tubes or 4 small pots)
- 1.2 oz (35 g) cocoa butter
- 0.7 oz (20 g) shea butter
- 0.2 oz (5 g) baobab oil
Method: Follow the basic method. Keep the layer thin on a baby's lips. For sore or cracked lips, a rash or anything that does not clear up, ask a midwife, doctor or pharmacist.
Buy the ingredients now
This recipe uses three Baraka ingredients. One click takes all three straight to checkout.
- Baraka Cocoa Butter, 3.5 oz (100 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Raw Shea Butter, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Baobab Oil, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for several batches
Troubleshooting: If it is too firm for gentle use, use 1.1 oz (30 g) cocoa butter and 0.9 oz (25 g) shea butter.
Many parents use this recipe and are happy with the results. Everything in it is pure, natural ingredients that many others have used with no issues or harm, but it is not a formally approved treatment. Your doctor, pediatrician or pharmacist should always be your first source of advice for your baby.
Recipe 4: Cold weather lip balm with kombo butter
This version adds kombo butter for a richer, slightly softer set. It suits outdoor days and windy weather. It is not for babies or young children. Patch test the kombo butter first on the inside of your arm for 24 hours. Kombo butter stains clothing and towels, so wipe up spills straight away.
Ingredients (makes about 6 tubes)
- 1.2 oz (35 g) cocoa butter
- 0.6 oz (18 g) shea butter
- 0.3 oz (8 g) kombo butter (about 30% of the shea and kombo blend)
- 0.1 oz (4 g) baobab oil
Method: Melt all three butters together. Kombo butter takes longer than cocoa or shea butter, so allow extra time and keep the heat low. Take off the heat, stir in the baobab oil and pour at once. Have containers ready, because kombo butter makes the mixture set faster once it is off the heat.
Buy the ingredients now
This recipe uses four Baraka ingredients. One click takes all four straight to checkout.
- Baraka Cocoa Butter, 3.5 oz (100 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Raw Shea Butter, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for two batches
- Baraka Kombo Butter, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for several batches
- Baraka Baobab Oil, 1.8 oz (50 g): enough for several batches
Troubleshooting: If your lips do not like it, leave the kombo butter out and make Recipe 1. If the mixture sets before you finish pouring, return it briefly to the double boiler over very low heat. Do not overheat it.
What each ingredient does in your lip balm
Cocoa butter is hard and slow-melting. It makes the balm firm and gives it a clean snap when you press it. It is the main reason a balm holds its shape.
Shea butter is rich and creamy. It melts at a lower temperature, spreads easily and leaves a soft, moisturising feel. People in Ghana have used it on skin for generations.
Baobab oil is light. It absorbs quickly, leaves little residue and makes the balm glide. Shea oil does the same job.
Kombo butter is firm but rich. It sits between cocoa butter and shea butter. Use it in small amounts only, and with the care described in Recipe 4.
How to change the texture of lip balm
The rule of thumb is simple: butters make it rich, oils make it soft and light, wax makes it hold its shape. Cocoa butter is the hard butter in this guide, so it does the job of a wax. You do not need to add any beeswax.
- Firmer: add more cocoa butter, or reduce the baobab oil by 0.1 oz (2–3 g).
- Softer: add more shea butter, or a little more baobab oil.
- Lighter and glossier: add a little more baobab or shea oil.
- Richer: add more shea butter and keep the oil small.
- Thicker or runnier: thicker means more cocoa butter, runnier means more oil. Change only 0.2 oz (5 g) at a time and write down what you did.
Ratios at a glance
The ratio of cocoa butter to shea butter is the biggest decision you will make.
70/20/10 (cocoa/shea/oil): very firm. Good for tropical or summer use. It needs firm pressure to apply.
60/30/10: the classic everyday balm. It holds its shape at normal temperatures and is easy to apply. Best starting point for beginners.
50/40/10: soft and rich. Often chosen by people with very dry lips. It may soften in a warm pocket.
Adding kombo butter: swap in a small amount for some of the shea butter, keeping it at 20 to 30% of the shea and kombo blend. The balm will set a little softer than one made with cocoa butter alone.
Shea butter vs cocoa butter: why you need both
Shea butter and cocoa butter are both solid African fats, but they behave differently. Shea butter is softer and melts at a lower temperature, so it is easy to apply directly as a body moisturiser. Cocoa butter is harder and slower to melt, which suits balms and solid bars that need to hold their shape. For a firm lip balm, cocoa butter gives the structure and shea butter gives the comfort. Baraka's shea butter is made by hand at the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana, and its cocoa butter is unrefined and from Ghana.
The butters in these recipes have been used on skin for generations in West Africa, including through the Harmattan season, when dry, dusty winds blow in from the Sahara. They contain no water, so these balms need no preservative. Many people find they feel rich and natural on dry lips.
Storage and shelf life
Every recipe in this guide is made only from butters and oils, with no water. Stored cool, dry and away from sunlight, these lip balms keep for 12 to 24 months. Store them in tubes or a clean jar, and label them with the date. If a balm ever smells off, throw it out.
Do not add water, aloe vera gel or any water-based ingredient to these recipes. Water changes the recipe completely and it would then need a preservative.
What the evidence shows, and how to check it yourself
Shea butter and cocoa butter have long been used for conditioning lips and skin, and that traditional use is real and well documented. It is not the same as a clinical trial, and we do not claim that any ingredient treats, heals or cures a condition. Traditional use tells us a great deal. Controlled research tells us something different. Both matter.
To look for supporting research, try searching: "shea butter lip clinical study", "cocoa butter conditioning evidence" or "African butters skin research". To find evidence that qualifies or challenges the traditional view, try: "shea butter lip balm contraindicated", "cocoa butter skin study limitations" or "does natural lip balm actually work". Reading both sides gives you a clearer picture. A lot of what you find will be inconclusive, and that is useful to know too.
You can also read what customers say about Baraka shea butter and Baraka cocoa butter in their own lip care routines. That is not clinical evidence, but it is another useful signal. Draw your own conclusions from the evidence, not ours.
Where these ingredients come from
Baraka's shea butter is made by hand at the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana. Baraka's baobab oil is made by hand in Ghana. Baraka's cocoa butter is unrefined and from Ghana. Wayne Dunn has worked directly with the centre for over 15 years. Baraka's shea butter and baobab oil are processed by hand using traditional water-based methods, with no chemical extraction. Baraka is Community Certified Fair Trade.
Felicia Solomon is one of the women behind these ingredients. Celebrating Mothers: Felicia Solomon shares her story, including what the work makes possible for her and her family in Ghana's Upper West Region. You can read the full picture in Baraka's Social and Environmental Impact Report. Browse the Butters Collection and the DIY Ingredients Collection.
Make it your own
These recipes are a starting point, not a rulebook. Use your judgement, be inspired, and don't be afraid to experiment. Everything here is a pure, natural ingredient that blends happily with the others. Start with a small batch, write down what you did, and see how your lips respond. When you find a blend that works for you, make it again.
Frequently asked questions
What ingredients do I need to make natural lip balm at home?
The core ingredients in Baraka's guide are cocoa butter for firmness, shea butter for softness and a light liquid oil such as baobab oil or shea oil for easy application. None of them contains water, so no preservative is needed. A classic starting ratio is 60% cocoa butter, 30% shea butter and 10% liquid oil. Weigh everything on a digital kitchen scale.
Why is cocoa butter essential in natural lip balm?
As Baraka's guide notes, cocoa butter melts at about 93–100°F (34–38°C), which gives lip balm its shape and staying power. Without it, a shea butter balm is too soft and will melt in a warm pocket. Cocoa butter gives the structure and shea butter gives the soft feel. The ratio between them decides whether your balm is firm, medium or soft.
How do I stop my homemade lip balm from going grainy?
Baraka's guide explains that graininess comes from the shea butter cooling too slowly and forming large crystals. Melt the butters until fully liquid, then pour straight into the containers while still hot. Do not stir after pouring and do not refrigerate to speed up setting. If a finished batch is grainy, remelt all of it and repour at a higher temperature.
Can I add essential oils to natural lip balm?
Yes, but only a little. Baraka's recommended limit for lips is up to 0.5% of the batch weight, which is about 0.01 oz (0.3 g), or about 6 drops, in a 2.3 oz (65 g) batch. Use none in recipes for babies or young children. Never use bergamot or lemon in a leave-on balm, because they are phototoxic. In pregnancy, use no essential oils in the first 12 weeks and ask your midwife or doctor. The recipes here work well without any.
What is the best liquid oil for lip balm?
Baraka's baobab oil is a strong choice because it is light, absorbs in a few minutes and leaves little residue. Shea oil, which is made from unrefined shea butter, is just as light. Palm kernel oil works when you have no baobab oil. Avoid red palm oil in lip balm. It absorbs slowly, the colour is hard to manage and it stains clothing and towels.
Is natural lip balm safe for babies and during pregnancy?
Recipe 3 in Baraka's guide has no essential oils, no fragrance and no kombo butter, which makes it the right recipe to use for babies or during pregnancy. Never use kombo butter or essential oils for babies. Keep it to a thin layer. For sore or cracked lips, a rash or anything that does not clear up, ask a midwife, doctor or pharmacist.
Where does Baraka source its cocoa butter and shea butter?
Baraka's shea butter is made by hand at the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana. Baraka's cocoa butter is unrefined and from Ghana. Wayne Dunn has worked directly with the centre for over 15 years. Baraka's shea butter is processed by hand with traditional water-based methods and no chemical extraction. Baraka is Community Certified Fair Trade.
How long does homemade natural lip balm last?
In Baraka's guide, a lip balm made from cocoa butter, shea butter and a stable oil such as baobab oil keeps for 12 to 24 months when stored cool, dry and away from sunlight. The least stable ingredient sets the limit. Throw out any balm that smells or looks off.
Quick answers
How do you make lip balm at home?
Baraka's method is to melt cocoa butter and shea butter together in a heat-proof glass cup over a small saucepan of simmering water, then take it off the heat and stir in a little baobab oil. A classic starting mix is 60% cocoa butter, 30% shea butter and 10% baobab oil, weighed on a digital scale. Pour it straight into lip balm tubes or small pots and let it set at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours, without refrigerating it. More in The basic method for all four recipes
About the Author
Wayne Dunn is the founder of Baraka Impact and a former Professor of Practice in Sustainability at McGill University. He holds an M.Sc. in Management from Stanford and has spent over 15 years working directly with the Konjeihi Women's Enterprise Centre in Ghana's Upper West Region to source traditionally made shea butter. He shares DIY skincare recipes and ingredient guides designed to be made at home with real ingredients, and sourced with full transparency about where they come from.
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